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Changing the gear oil in your 020 trans.How to: Change the gear oil in your 020 trans.
Let's cover some tools you'll need.
If your car is stock height, you can likely do this job without jacking up the car, but be sure you place your gearshift in 1st gear, set the hand brake, and place a chock behind the wheel, just to be safe.
If you choose to jack up the car, don't forget your jack stands.
The blocks of wood can be used to block the wheels,
The drain and fill plugs in the trans are a 17mm hex/allen head. Below are a few options for removing said plugs.
The top is your standard L-shaped allen wrench, I believe it was purchased at Sears for around $10.
In the center, we have a rather primitive method. A 17mm bolt. (a BMW lug bolt, specifically)
You can butt 2 nuts against each other on the threads, and use a wrench, or simply hold it with vice grips, as shown. It'll get the job done if you can't find the proper tool, but I much prefer the last option.
I picked this socket up at Schucks, of all places.
It's simply a 17mm hex socket that attaches to your standard 3/8 socket wrench. I believe it was $7.00, or so.
Depending on what trans you have, it may require additional fluid, added through the speedometer cable hole.
If that's the case, you'll also need a phillips screwdriver to remove the speedometer cable.
As you can see, I've also included the Bentley manual. You likely won't need it for this job, but I suggest picking one up if you plan on owning your mk1 for any amount of time.
If your trans case was built before September 8th, 1987, you'll need to add additional fluid, [i]after[/i] replacing the fill plug in the side of the trans.
These early Trasmissions don't require more fluid, the fill hole is simply too low, and the fluid pours out before it's full. This problem was solved on the later transmissions by relocating the fill hole 7mm higher on the case.
If the trans in your car isn't stock, and you're curious as to whether it requires additional fluid, simply check the date stamped on the bottom of the bell housing.
This photo was taken from under the car, looking at the bottom of the trans. The front of the car is to the left, and the motor is at the bottom of the picture. The first two letters (sometimes numbers & letters) are the code for your gearing. The last 5 numbers are the manufacture date.
It's simple to decipher.. It reads: Day-Day-Month-Month-Year
The above trans reads: 11070, meaning it was built on July 11th, 1980.
We know that the last digit is 1980, and not 1990, by the years the FF trans was built.
Now that we've got that mess squared away, grab some gear oil.
Volkswagen recommends Hypoid oil API GL4, MIL-L2105 SAE 75 or G50 SAE 75W90 synthetic lubricant. I recommend Lucas oil, or Redline.
You'll need 2.1 quarts. (2 Liters) for the 020 trans.
My trans has been acting up, and I'm not sure how long it will last, so I'm cheaping out, and using Valvoline.
You'll need a long funnel, and a hose, or tube that fits on the end of the funnel. You can use heater/coolant hose if you can find it in the right size.
Keep in mind, it needs to fit in the fill hole, [i]and[/i] onto the end of your funnel.
Get your drain pan, and let's get started.
The first thing you're going to want to do, is chock your wheels so the car doesn't roll away.
If you're jacking the car up for this job, make sure you put the jack in the correct spot. You don't want to crush your pinch-welds, or bend your floor.
This photo was taken directly behind the front wheel opening on the drivers side. Note the "nub" in the red circle. This is what you're aiming for.
Even if you can't see it, you can reach under the car and feel it. There's one on either side of the car.
Before you get carried away and start draining the gear oil, take the car for a spin around the block to warm up the oil. You don't want it hot enough to burn you, but it will drain faster and easier if it's warm.
Next, make sure you can remove either the speedometer cable, the fill plug on the drivers side of the trans, or both.
No sense draining it, if you're unable to fill it back up.
This is the fill plug, accessible through the drivers side wheel opening.
You can remove the wheel to gain easier access, but it's not necessary.
Pictured below, is the speedometer hole.
Simply follow the cable from the firewall, it's near the back of the engine bay, on the top of the trans, held in place by a single phillips screw.
This is the timing hole, we won't be using this, I'm just warning you not to pour any gear oil (or anything) in there, or you'll be replacing your clutch.
Place your drain pan under the car and grab your 17mm allen, let's drain the gear oil.
This picture was taken from under the car, below the differential where your inner CV joints bolt up. Turn it counter-clockwise to loosen it, and have your drain pan handy.
When you pull the plug, be sure and inspect the inside of it, there shouldn't be any chunks, or shavings... if you find some, you may have a problem.
As you can see, I've got a nice, little metal shaving in there, let's hope it's nothing serious.
When it's finished draining, replace, and tighten the plug. Don't forget this step, or you'll be buying more oil, [i]and[/i] cleaning up a big mess.
Now you're ready to fill it back up. Grab your funnel and your hose.
Here, you can see the hose inserted in the fill hole, then run out though the driver side wheel opening...
Pretty awkward, eh?
Since my car requires the final .5 Liters of oil added through the speedometer cable hole, and running the funnel through the wheel opening is a hassle, I opted to ignore the fill hole on the side, and simply use the speedo hole to add all 2 liters.
Close everything back up, be sure it's all tight, and you're done.
Take it slow and easy at first, you want to make sure the oil makes its way through the trans before you start beating on it.
Write-up courtesy of, Mk1Dubs.com
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